ALL THINGS FOOD: Cotogna by Chef Michael Tusk

www.cotognasf.com

Visit date: December 31

Cotogna is the rustic version to its yuppie and refined sister next door, Quince. The big draw is the open wood burning oven cranking out pizzas and fire roasted meats, also visible from the street through the massive windows. In place of white tablecloths, Cotogna uses brown paper placemats stamped with their name, simple but does the job just as well. Kitchen towels take the place of white napkins, which I like better because they are softer to the touch. There is a mix of individual wooden tables and farm tables. The atmosphere is extremely warm, inviting and quaint – screams Italian food, good Italian food.

The best part is the menu and its great affordability: $10 antipasti (appetizer), $16 primi (pasta), $7 dessert. The only variation to these categories and pricing are the 3-4 entrees priced between $19-24. Additionally, Cotogna offers a nightly $24 prix fixe menu of three courses. The modest prices don’t end there… ALL bottles of wine are $40, or $10 per glass. This is especially great when asking for recommendations – the waiter will not bring out some $80 bottle of wine or $20 glass that you don’t realize until you see the bill. Endless possibilities to try!

Speaking of possibilities, my biggest problem of the night is that we have a party of 2 (celebrating a quiet, romantic New Year’s Eve) and there are so many things to try – 3 antipasti dishes, 4 primi dishes, 1 entrée and 2 desserts. Unfortunately, my stomach is not big enough to eat all this. Fortunately, we plan to go back and I can’t wait.

But what’s so special about this place? It’s just another Italian restaurant right?

For starters, this is NOT the Italian food you find throughout North Beach and along Columbus Ave. Chef Michael Tusk made his mark in Berkeley with his handmade pastas. (Pastas are another one of my weaknesses, as are dumplings, noodles and rice that I’ve mentioned in previous posts. I love my carbs.) Similar to fresh tortillas in my Regalito post, fresh pasta does not compare. I’ve had pasta advertised as fresh daily but the taste clearly indicated they were from a box. I’ve had freshly made pasta that was too gummy either from overcooking or being left out of the refrigerator too long. Just as easily, I can boil an expensive artisanal pack of dried pasta at home, but eating fresh pasta with the right texture is heaven. Pasta making takes practice and skill, which Chef Tusk has mastered. (Still trying to master it at home.)

Also to mention is the gnocchi. Again, it requires skill to make them light and fluffy. All these paired with the right sauces and ragus are just incredible.

Another honorable mention is the spinach sformato. Sformato is like an egg custard, similar to the Japanese chawan mushi (mentioned in my Morimoto post). Flavor combinations are endless and Chef Tusk’s particular addition of spinach is a welcome taste to the creaminess of both the custard and the fonduta sauce.

Though we skip pizza, the table next to us has the wild nettle/egg/pecorina pizza which looks good. The crunch from each of their bites is a good sign.

Overall, everything is done perfectly from start to finish, from appetizers to desserts with the delicately homemade cookies - pinenut to accompany the creme fraice panna cotta, and amaretti with the bonet.

Cotogna is now on my list of favorite Italian eateries along with Perbacco. Acquerello is good. Seven Hills just opened so I’ll have to check that out too. I’ve been to Flour + Water, which is the new rage, but Cotogna outranks it by a lot.