Sunday, December 19, 2010

Daniel by Chef Daniel Boulud

www.danielnyc.com

Visit date: October 08

From start to finish, Daniel is very well thought out. The main dining room summons feelings of grandeur with its beautiful columns and arches. These structures create what is essentially a slightly elevated patio surrounding center stage. The lighting is dim, drawing our eyes to cream colored walls hung with colorful artwork. Already, we're in for a treat and a great dining experience.

Chef Boulud's cuisine is traditional French, a heavier palate, superbly executed. He offers a three course meal which might not sound like much, but just wait, there are a few delicious surprises thrown in too.

My first course is partridge consomme. Consomme of any sort is truly a labor of love requiring several cycles of cooking, reducing, and straining to produce the ever-purest of broths. The flavor here is concentrated and served with chervil cream and ricotta gnocchi for just the right amount of texture.

My entree of choice is red wine braised monkfish. Monkfish is not something typically seen on Californian menus – my curiosity peaks. Remembering I ordered monkfish pan roasted and lightly cooked last night at Le Bernardin, I am eager for a lateral tasting. Chef Boulud’s monkfish is cooked medium well whereas Chef Ripert’s monkfish is rare, sashimi-like. Tonight’s monkfish is treated more like steak, served with potatoes, onions and a dark bone marrow sauce. Both preparations are fantastic, just depends on the mood I’m in and the flavors I’m craving.

Lastly, I always need something sweet to finish the evening, preferably fruit based. I love fruits of all kinds but have a particular affection for papaya and guava juice. Perfect, I order the cilantro lime macerated papaya served with dacquoise, meyer lemon confit and guava sorbet. It is everything I hope it to be and more. Immediately, I tell myself that my plain old grocery store, ready-to-eat papaya isn’t enough anymore. I’m going to have to make my own papaya balls and macerate them too. It’s great when food inspires change.

The three course meal is over, where are the surprises I mentioned? First, we receive an extra dessert of figs. I’m no pastry chef, but this does not stop me from eating sweets. Maybe, secretly, I enjoy them more because I will never come close to making desserts the way restaurants make them. Secondly, we receive butter financier cakes. I thought I reached my limit in terms of food intake but I can't stop eating these! They are incredible! Buttery, light, fluffy, pure goodness! Lastly, our waiter offers us an array of chocolates. Chocolates are pretty typical but still unexpected given the previous two additions.

A wonderful night.

See additional posts:
Le Bernardin by Chef Eric Ripert
Chef Ripert or Chef Boulud

amuse bouche featuring butternut squash 3 ways

seasonal appetizer special - partridge consomme
chervil cream, ricotta gnocchi, mushrooms

crispy rice dusted kampachi
eggplant caponata,
paprika-tahini coulis, aged balsamic

red wine braised monkfish tail coated with bacon chips
pommes lyonnaise, cipollini onion tempura
grilled porcini, bone marrow sauce

flax seed crusted millbrook venison loin
quince marmalade, butternut squash purée
glazed chayote, sauce grand veneur

cilantro lime macerated papaya
dacquoise, meyer lemon confit, guava sorbet

warm guanaja chocolate coolant
liquid caramel inside, fleur de sel, milk sorbet

rivesaltes roasted black mission figs
caramelized cashew biscuit
fromage blanc sorbet

butter financier cakes


No comments:

Post a Comment